:: New routes in rapid sytle

I've heard a lot about Peruvian Andes 1 , but for years I didn't find time to visit them. I have listened about beautiful mountains 2 and lakes 3 , how interesting are the people 4 ... From my first visit in 1990, I come back almost every year.

My first climb in Andes was the Richey-Brewer route in the S face of Chacraraju, and already there I got the idea what to do in the future: fast, lightweight ascents in big walls, many of them still unclimbed. Next year I climbed my first new route in N face of Huascaran Sur 5 , with 6768 m the highest mountain of Peru. I'ts a huge wall, not technically difficult, but very serious...

In 1993 Grega Kresal and me climbed the first route in the crazy E face of Cacraraju 6 . The Slovenian route 7 (ED2, A2+) takes line right of the central snowfields and joins the Terray route (NE ridge) below the rock headwall. Some days later, we repeated Japanese route 8 in the Chacraraju S face.

Two years later I succeed in N face of Huandoy Sur. The route is called Oro del Inca 9 ; photo explains the name... And in 2001 I was there again and climbed another solo route in steep rocks 10 sligtly right of the center: No fiesta hoy dia 11 , ED+. There's a film about the ascent, and a part of story takes place on the Kornati islands 12 .

Most of my Andean routes I did solo. In 1998 I opened a new route in Chopicalqui N face 13 , and next year I made 1st solo of Scandinavian route in Ranrapalca in 3 hours.

In July 2000 I did my first visit to Cordillera Huayhuash. Marjan Kovac, Aritza Monasterio and me 14 tried to climb E face of Jirishanca 15 . Without success - weather and conditions forced us to retreat after some 600 m of the face.

I came came back to Huayhuash in 2002, with the same team but to another mountain: NE face od Siula Grande. We started early 16 and climbed 17 in rapid lightweight style. We didn't feel very safe below giant serac 18 at the top, but the summit view 19 was excellent... The new route in Siula is called Los Rapidos 20 : 8 hours climbing up and 7 down.